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Author Topic: Voltage drop Ecoda 22khz  (Read 770 times)
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hoytclagwell
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« on: Aug 28 2016 02:02:01 »

Using an Ecoda 22khz switch with 0 to a Pansat C band LNB and the 22khz side to a small motorized Ku motor. I had good results for about a month but now I am losing my horizontal on both the C and Ku. The switch is out at the C band and another cable from the 22khz side runs about 20 feet to the Ku. Checking voltages at the switch on the input side from the receiver shows 14 on V and 18.5 on H. Coming out of the switch it's 2 to 3 volts lower. Removing the switch restores the horizontal channels. Verticals are not affected by the drop. I use a barrel to couple the coax together to check the C band V and H then switch it to the Ku and all is well. Anyone else ever see this much voltage drop through an Ecoda? I have an older off brand 22khz switch that I tried with the same results.

Looking for advice before purchasing another Ecoda. I switched to the Ecoda after reading the cheap ones don't have the current handling for a Ku motor.

Thanks.
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Titanium
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« Reply #1 on: Aug 28 2016 03:20:05 »

Since the voltage drop is happening with two different switches, are you certain that the problem is related to the switches? There is a slight voltage drop through an Ecoda, but it should be in the 1/10th volt range. I would swap jumpers, new connectors and test with other LNBs to rule out other causes.
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hoytclagwell
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« Reply #2 on: Aug 28 2016 03:48:46 »

Last weekend I struggled with it and got mad. I ran all new cables and connectors and thought for sure it fixed the problem however it reared its ugly head hours later after I switched from a V to H transponder. Didn't feel like looking into it during the week. This weekend I unhooked the cable from the receiver and switch hooked a current limiting power supply set to 18VDC and 500ma to the receiver end and shorted the other end with my Fluke set for amps and got the 500ma at the end. 18VDC reading the voltage. Did the same with the cable from the switch to the LNB's. May not be a proper way to test the cables but for me I didn't care.  grin 

On another forum I read some 22khz switches have a relay that can cause this problem. My Ecoda is so small I wonder if there is a relay? The older one is large enough for one.

For kicks and giggles I tried a different LNB with same results.
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mengram
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« Reply #3 on: Aug 28 2016 04:32:28 »

I agree with Titanium about checking other possible problems. I would definitely check with and without the barrel connector inline as I have had those things cause the signal to degrade and pixel and also had them short out completely a couple of times.

mengram
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hoytclagwell
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« Reply #4 on: Aug 28 2016 05:59:34 »

It works great with a barrel but not the switch. I'm learning more about these switches as I read. I took the older one a part and there's no relay all solid state. Others have reported that some 22khz switches keep power applied to both ports. I took the older one and the new one and applied 18VDC in and sure enough both the on and off ports pass power. So really I am powering both the C and Ku lnb's. I then went to the dish removed the barrel hooked the coax from the receiver to the input and I have power on both ports with the same 18.5VDC as what's coming in. Hooking up an LNB brings it down to 17.9 or 12.8 depending on 18 or 13 being sent from the receiver. I highly doubt the 500ma that the receiver says is coming out of the F connector printed on the receiver. The receiver is a Pansat 9500.

 Being the dangerous and experimental type that I am I took my old Openbox S9 and installed it and I am seeing higher voltage at the input to the switch of 20 and 14.7VDC. Hooking everything back up is working great on the Openbox. Maybe I have a power supply issue with the Pansat? I decided to try shorting the Fluke set to amp's to the end of the cable at the switch with the Pansat hooked up (yes I know a $100 plus receiver will protect a dollar fuse  rolleyes ) and I am not seeing more than 100ma into the short before the receiver shuts down and restarts.

So the Openbox is working fine. I guess I need to update to a new receiver. This whole thing started when the servo started going flakey on the Corotor2 and I put a new LNB with 13/18 switching. Thinking the servo may not be going bad it was just the Pansat? At least I learned something about 22khz switches.

Thanks everyone. Keeping my fingers crossed I solved it. No more nagging wife.
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El_Viejo
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« Reply #5 on: Aug 28 2016 10:29:23 »

Not really familiar with your receiver, but I do know the openbox uses a small fuse to protect the voltage outputs. Mine went bad recently and I had to replace it. It was intermitant at first. then quit altogether. JMHO    E_V
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E_V
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Titanium
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« Reply #6 on: Aug 29 2016 01:08:56 »

Personally, I would change the wiring slightly and use a DiSEqC switch instead. The combined current draw from two LNBFs and a motor will definitely exceed the receiver's maximum current rating and stress any receiver.

Try this wiring with a DiSEqC switch. Connect the receiver to the KU HH motor looped out to a 2x1 DiSEqC switch (or 4x1with unused ports capped), then to the LNBFs. This way, only one LNBF will be powered at a time and the total current load will be within the receiver's spec.
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hoytclagwell
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« Reply #7 on: Aug 29 2016 07:40:51 »

Thanks Ti for the advice. I was using a Diseq but it wouldn't always switch. I didn't have it hooked up the way you suggested but will try it this weekend.
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